Logan Sq.’s New Greek Restaurant Debuts As Eros Takes Goal With His Bow

Hsing Chen says she and husband Doug Psaltis have been smitten upon visiting the area that has since turn out to be the couple’s new Greek restaurant. Andros Taverna opens Friday in Logan Sq., close to a park method the place prospects will finally have the ability to seize a pastry and occasional from the walk-up window and loosen up on a park bench.

“There’s a whole lot of foot site visitors,” says Chen, the previous pastry chef on the world well-known French Laundry. “Lots of people are out strolling their canine.”

The window received’t be prepared for a couple of weeks, and the single-digit temperatures aren’t conducive to hangs within the park, however Chen and Psaltis see potential. It’s additionally a chance for Chen, a classically French educated pastry chef. The restaurant received’t must depend on dinner to outlive, as Chen’s pastries can usher in prospects in the course of the day. Ultimately, they’ll place show circumstances on prime of the bar crammed with sweets like and olive and pistachio danish, a cinnamon roll made with flaky brioche, and sesame koulouri (“They’re not bagels,” Chen says.)

Proper now, to scale back contact and the danger of contamination in the course of the pandemic, Andros is providing pastry bins. Chen’s pastries may even have a significant presence in the course of the weekends. That is Logan Sq., a neighborhood the place brunch crowds have been regular earlier than the pandemic. Chen hopes to see that power return.

Whereas the Romans name him Cupid, the Greeks discuss with the winged god armed with a bow and arrow as Eros. So there’s a little bit of a Valentine’s Day thread with Psaltis and Chen, together with Ryan and Anna O’Donnell (one other husband-and-wife combo) from Ballyhoo Hospitality (Gemini, Coda di Volpe) who’re partnering on Andros. As the town reinstated indoor eating on the finish of January, Andros opens its eating room on Friday, however may even supply a to-go menu.

Psaltis is a New Yorker who made a reputation for himself with Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises — he’s the “P” within the firm’s sequence of RPM eating places. He abruptly left Lettuce in 2019. He’s constructed Andros’ menu round a wood-burning grill. Chen says diners will have the ability to see flames from any seat in the home. The smoke and char will profit dishes like a lamb porterhouse: “It tastes extra like a steak,” Chen says. “The feel, taste — it’s so scrumptious.”

“The flames actually heat up the area,” she provides.

Chen has utilized her skills on the savory facet, going by 10 recipes in the course of the pandemic earlier than perfecting her pita which will likely be fired within the oven to order. The bread is mild and versatile, Chen says. Prospects can roll it up and make their very own gyros or dip it in mezes like eggplant moussaka. Different dine-in gadgets embrace sea urchin dakos and grilled octopus.

However there’s extra to Chen’s pastries, as she’s incorporating Greek flavors into almost each merchandise. The kitchen has a frozen yogurt machine, and Chen’s excite to supply a olive and pistachio “twist” Danish and a chocolate halva tart dipped in chocolate with coconut.

One merchandise holds sentimentality for Psaltis and Chen: Chen would make cookies (kourabiedes) loaded with butter and powdered sugar for her father in regulation. Psaltis and Chen hope to open extra eating places down the road. However for now, their focus is Logan Sq.. Eros is definitely centered this weekend along with his bow and arrows. Love is within the air.

Andros Taverna, 2542 N. Milwaukee Avenue, (773) 365-1900, Reservations at the moment are out there via Resy for dine-in; takeout beginning subsequent Wednesday, February 17.